Throttle cable

 You would think the throttle cable installation would be easy - well it is when you know how. I removed the throttle 'stop' and tried (in vain) to install the cable.

It is well nigh impossible to do this when the grip is on the bike, so I removed it and inserted a 3/4" bar into the end (simulating the handlebar). The stop (knob on the top) must be in otherwise the soldered end of the cable will just keep coming away from the unit. Quite difficult to describe but easy to do when you know how. The masking tape is used to keep things out of the way. If you are unaware, the rubber needs pulling back to expose a large circlip. Once this is undone then it all start to make sense as to what to do!

The Amal carb end is fairly straightforward. However it was a good job I checked things over as the throttle slide was damaged and no return spring was in the carb. These faults were soon remedied and the cable inserted. I also did this off the bike.

Metal work - final spraying?

 When I decided to refurbish the tinware on the Triumph, a friend said I should get it all blasted and powder coated. Then it was an easy matter of filling any dents or pit marks with 2 pack body filler prior to a final spray. He was absolutely right. The powder coated metal work was flatted down first with Scotchbrite pads before any filler was applied. Here are some of the photos:

Above shows after filler has been machine

sanded (mini air sander)

The above shows many pop marks there are 

on some of the panels (where the rust was)

Another view!

Some parts after 1st coat of 2 pack black

The mudguards!

Any pin holes were filled with filler and sanded back. I would have used aluminium powder filler but my tin had gone off. There is an issue, however! It appears I have used the wrong activator for the paint I have and it is taking ages to go off!! So I will leave it out in the sun and then flat back for the final coat - with the correct activator. 

The paint work isn't perfect. I don't want to the bike to look perfect as I want some of the patina / orginality to show through the paint. The odd micro dent will be ignored.

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Around 24 hours later and the paint had not even started to harden. A chat with my local refinishing shop and I was told the only course of action was to remove the paint and start again! 

Half a gallon of thinners and a roll of heavy duty kitchen towel later and the paint was off. It was a messy job but the right decision. I let the paint dry for 24 hours as the powder coating was  softened slighly and then sprayed the 2 pack black again BUT with the correct hardener!! The paint is now hardening and I will give it as final coat after I have flatted back - I feel much happier now!

 

Further Magneto issues...

 I thought I would investigate the ATD unit that I had before finishing off the magneto. It was very stiff and the weights looked seized. After soaking in white spirit, and then the ultrasonic tank the picture below show the offending parts:

If you look carefully, you will see the cam weights have elongate pivot holes and as a result, the weights have been rubbing on the pivot plate. It doesn't show very well but the lower plate is worn through about half way due ot the fact the weight pivots are so worn. Quite a mess! So I decided to refurb another I have and rivet a new fibre gear onto it. The rivets were 3/16" x 1/2" countersunk and were a perfect fit for peening over. I won't go through the whole process but once the retaining collar is pressed off then it is all serviceable. The damaged gear is shown. I have another magneto with ATD to do so I may show the process if there is any interest. The finished unit is on the left.

Magneto refurb...

 Quite a while ago, I refurbished the magneto drive (K2F) but like the rest of the bike, I am dubious as to how well it was done, so another strip down was done - you guessed it - a few bits missing and the end float was wrong. New bits are now ordered and I await their delivery. One thing that is not available at the moment is a points set (brass plate variety) but I have a spare. I did manage to get a decent spark out of it, however!! 

And it's - off we go!!

Well, it's been a while but I have now progressed to getting the workshop mainly sorted and now I'm turning my attentions to the 3T.

When we moved, the gearbox was behaving strangely and the kickstart didn't seem to work. When the bike was put up onto my lift, I then found I could not even turn the bike over, so I have decided to start again and dismantle the gearbox. (I may even do the same to the engine!!)

When I eventually got the cover plate off, the kickstart spring was broken and it was not engaging in gears.

I think that the box was not indexing correctly. Once dismantled, I noticed that one camplate roller was very rough and if looked like the index was wrong. In fact the fork selector and roller were blued and very rough.....a spare to the rescue again!

The photo below shows the mounting lugs for the speedo drive. There is a gear above the sprocket (hidden) that drives the speedo.

Photo below shows the use of a vertical bar in the vice to support the gearbox - much better than trying to use blocks of wood etc.

These are the components for the kickstart ratchet - Somewhere in the garage is the washer on the right which decided to fly off the bench!! Good job I had a spare.

The camplate seems to have been using a pointed plunger. The older ones are more like a chisel point. I will use that type - see photo below.

Now the gearbox is back together and the indexing seems to be working much better with all gears being selected correctly. A new kickstart spring has also been installed. I will put gasket sealant on the mating faces and then it is ready to go back into the bike.

Still not finished.....

I still haven't finished the bike.
We are now in the throws of moving house and once my new workshop has been sorted it will be back to the rebuild again!! Watch this space......

Seat frame mock up and test

I never had a seat with the bike and it has proved quite difficult to get any sensible answers relating to the seat and fixing. It would appear that the nearest is the Trophy or T90 style seat and I managed to get some photos of a seat on the bike together with a couple of other 3T's over the last few months.
The salient information is that the spring centres are 8" apart. Armed with this I bought a Wassell copy seat (Indian) and set about modifying it.

The frame requires the removal of the lower rear underneath bar.

Brackets to mount the springs are 1" wide and 1.5" x 1" angle (about 3mm thick)

The seat fits fairly well now and I shall make the brackets for the springs and rivet on. When it is finished, I will post a photo before fitting the cover.