Rear wheel bearings!

 I find it rather amusing that the replacement bearings for the rear hub (not spung hub) come to almost £400.00 from traditional bearing suppliers.
Surely there must be a sensible alternative? I was thinking of taking a standard taper bearing to the nearest outer dimension and making a sleeve to emulate the original for the inner.

This is for another 3T that I own and fortunately both of the 1163X bearings (W7A part number) and the 1120NI outers shells a fine.

When I have experimented with this, I will post back

These bearings are for another 3T that I own and I hope to restore that a little more quickly this time!!

Things have been sent to try me!!

 I have been pre-occupied with other things since my last post but now the weather has changed, I thought it was time to get the 3T ready for the summer. 

The DVLA have now issued me with a period registration and I got a local guy to sign write the number plate for me. There are about half a dozen little jobs to sort out and then off we go - or at least I thought so. 

One little job was a petrol leak from the petrol tap - easy enough to sort but it was proving tricky. I removed the petrol tap and replaced it with a spare whilst I looked for replacement seals. The replacement tap leaked very slightly from the thread into the tank. A quick nip up and voila..

.. a broken blxxdy tap. I now have to remove the tank and attempt to remove the remains of the tap. I have no idea what the tap is made of but it is not brass. From it's weight it looks to be cast iron!!

So that has delayed things a bit.

I would like to fit a side stand but not sure if I have enough space by the fram to fit a clamp type one. I need to do some research.

Video clip of the 3T starting up and a brief walk round

It getting there and there are only a few minor jobs to do to get it roadworthy.

I'm awaiting a couple of parts and also the registration documents from DVLA. It was originally sold to Eire (Ireland) and so I need to get the bike registered here in the UK. You will spot the oil pressure gauge near the engine. The first one did not work but the replacement seems to be OK. Not sure waht the pressure should be but appears to be decent! Oil returns to the tank OK but it is a little strange that the oil capacity is 6 pints and there is no way I could get 6 pints into the oil tank. Currently it has about 4.5 pints in there and that seems ideal.

Below is the current list of little jobs to finish off the bike. After that it will be a shakedown once I have put a few miles on it.

Oil leak from front forks - check bottom damper securing bolts

Exhaust header bolts - threads poor, so make longer bolt to take a nut

Ammeter - replace chrome bezel

Trailing lamp unit wires etc

Fuel pipe / tank adjust - holes need enlarging so tank is easier to fit

Bolt to bottom of toolbox

Number plate - await reg

Sort gear lever – adjust on spline

Front brake arm - Bend?

Rear brake pedal shaft – remove and re-bush / grease

Check all nuts and bolts for tightness.

It lives!

By the weekend, my replacement magneto had arrived and the new clutch springs.

A sunny afternoon and what better than little exercise by kicking over the Triumph.

After a bit of faffing around there was a fire from either cylinder but not fully when hey presto, the bike sprang into life. A momentous day! I suggest this bike has not been on the road for atleast 40 years plus!

One problem was the oil pressure gauge - it doesn't register anything BUT the oil is returning to oil tank (viewed from the filler cap).

Another bizarre thing is that I got the ignition timing wrong but it did restart a few times and ran well.

So a few more jobs to do and whilst I await a few bits (including a new loom - the one I have is rubbish) I will sort out another pressure gauge and re-seal all of the covers - once the timing is set correctly!!

So - progress!

I will embed a video of the bike running next time!

To start or not!

The time came last week to have a go at starting the Triumph. 

Oils liberally put over the top end, gearbox, chain case and engine oil filled and a remote petrol tank setup. By the way, if you intend to use a remote tank, put a filter / tap on it - it is a pain with no way of switching off the fuel! Earth cable setup to have the ability to stop the engine (on the magneto) - ever hopefull!

Just a few checks and I could try the kick start!

Well, firstly there was fuel dribbling out of the carb. Secondly, I could not get a spark - it seemed OK on the bench and lastly, the clutch slipped. So it was back in the workshop and a bit of dismantling.

The short answer was:

• The carb float was not sitting properly on its shaft - easily remedied.
• The clutch springs were a little weak (too short) so some new ones were ordered (they are meant to be 1.5" long and these were a little short). In addition, I was probably using a slightly thick hydraulic oil for the primary case and so will try SAE20 next time)
• The magneto was removed and unless you got a drill onto the unit, there was no spark. I decided to send off the magneto to be tested and repaired as necessary. As my K2F magneto has a smaller bearing in it (19mm aperture by the seal as opposed to 25mm by the seal) it was decided to replace the whole thing with a fully reconditioned unit.

Until I get the magneto and clutch springs, I will carry on and sort the new wiring out on the bike. Await round 2!!

A bit of bling!

 Ages ago, I was given a drawing of a suitable rack for the back of the bike that mounts onto the grab rail bolts.

Time to get it made! This was done by 'Classic Racks' in Cumbria and what an excellent job they did!

Really well made and a useful accessory should I decide I want to carry something.

Photos of the 3T so far...

A few photographs showing the current progress - not long before I try and kick it over!

Spot the oil pressure gauge fitted for initial start up!

Plug leads not cut to lenght yet!